For the novice cook, it's hard to imagine who could be a better teacher than someone named 'Betty.' 'Betty' is the older next-door-neighbor who sits you down in her kitchen, pours you a cup of coffee, then puts a thick square of yellow cake topped with chocolate frosting in front of you. She grocery shops on Thursdays and cooks dinner every night, with a roast on Sundays. Betty is comfort. She's steady and familiar, like a pot of vegetable soup simmering on the back burner.
Every section has check-marked recipes I tried. Paging through Appetizers, I am reminded of early parties where we would get together at each other's apartments bringing beer and wine, and sometimes appetizers. When we hosted, I felt I always needed to make two, and Betty frequently answered that call. Stuffed Mushrooms. Guacamole. Frosted Pate. Okay, so it was really braunschweiger topped with a blanket of cream cheese. I surrounded the crock with tiny pumpernickel squares and those sweet midget pickles, and the men all loved it. I tried something called Gouda Burst, where I carefully cut a cross in the red cheese shell, refilled it with the cheese mixture, then pushed it out for the "burst" effect. But my favorite had to be the Cheese Balls. Truly works of art.
The recipes for the first brunch we hosted as newlyweds came from her pages. We had received a tabletop griddle as a wedding gift, so we used that and made Favorite Pancakes, with an assortment of fruit toppings, butters and syrup. Pineapple Sourcream Topping with Pineapple Syrup. Woodman's Special, spread with Orange Butter and Blueberry Syrup. My own addition was strawberries with freshly-whipped cream. Our families, quite impressed with our efforts, left satisfied and full.
I tried yeast. White Bread. Swedish Limpa Rye Bread. But I didn't get the satisfaction that so many do out of baking bread, so I didn't dwell in that section. But Betty kept the dinners coming. I found all manner of good things in her pages that I never had at home.
My mother had been a plain cook, and I doubt she ever looked at a recipe. She relied on roasting beef and pork and broiling chicken halves. Frugal casseroles followed those up in the menu rotation where she chopped the leftover meat into tiny pieces and added them to elbow macaroni and whatever vegetables needed to be used up. Canned green beans and peas filled the green vegetable slot on the plate, but our favorite vegetable was corn. Next to the canned beets, the dreaded wax beans were the worst, a vegetable I've never understood.
On nights when my father wasn't home for dinner, I recall the occasional breakfast-for-dinner meal, and one memorable combination of canned spaghetti with canned beets. So with that culinary family history, cooking truly became an adventure for me, and for years, I never made the same recipe twice. How could I, with so many untried recipes out there? And so I cooked my way through the Big Red Cookbook. Stuffed Green Peppers. Hamburger Stroganoff. Breast of Chicken on Rice. Minute Steaks. Swiss Steak. New England Pot Roast. Chicken Cacciatore. Classic Turkey Divan.
For company occasions, there was Veal Cordon Bleu. Roast Beef with Yorkshire Pudding. Company Cheesecake with Strawberry Glaze. Williamsburg Orange Cake. And, being the 1970s, fondue. We had received three fondue pots as wedding gifts, and fondue parties were in.
At one time or another, everyone made the trip into the city for dinner at Gejas, an all-fondue restaurant where dinner would take hours to get through all the fondu-ing and wine drinking. Our at-home fondue evenings were no different.
On some occasions I would make a cheese fondue to serve our guests. I shopped for Gruyere, a cheese I had never heard of, and white wine, and rubbed the fondue pot with a fresh clove of garlic. I bought kirsch, because that is what made it so authentic. And fresh baguettes, which were carefully torn into pieces, then left to dry out a bit, so they could be later speared with fondue forks and bathed in the rich cheese mixture.
For a fondue dinner party, I liked to serve Betty's Fondue Bourguignonne, which really just detailed the method of cooking the beef in the oil in the fondue pot. With it, I served dipping sauces, including Betty's Blue Cheese Sauce. But the real star of the beef fondue was the Bordelaise sauce, a truly magical recipe where a rich and fragrant sauce sprung from mixing flour and butter (I later learned it was a 'roux), beef broth, red wine and thyme. I used that recipe for years, sometimes adding mushrooms, sometimes varying the herbs.
Three fondue pots meant we could also do a dessert fondue, and of course that meant Chocolate Fondue, served with dippers of angel food cake and strawberries. A dinner such as this became the entire event of the evening. No other dishes had to be prepared, and the music, conversation and wine flowed all night.
My first forays into baking came from this cookbook. Growing up, my German father had a sweet tooth, which my mother satisfied with storebought cookies and packaged coffee cakes from the grocery store. Occasionally she would bring real treats home from a bakery. One of my early memories is peering into endless display cases in the sugary-sweet warmth of a bakery, amazed at the rows of jewel-toned pastries, pies and strudels thick with fruit, and rows and rows of cookies I couldn't identify.
It didn't take long to realize how well-appreciated homebaked treats were. With the exception of the Williamsburg Orange Cake, a regal, three-layer affair that bore no resemblance to the photo of the recipe, my efforts were simple. Lemon Bars. Old-Fashioned Pumpkin Pie. Lemon Pudding Cake. Pineapple Upside Down Cake. Muffins. Apple Crisp. Apple Pie. Applesauce Cake. And a Lemon Meringue Pie which taught me that pies do, indeed, weep.
The slimmer Betty spiral cookbooks, reasonably priced, also found their way into my fledgling cookbook collection. Sadly, my favorite, the blue Dinner For Two, has disappeared from my shelves. But I still have others, including the yellow Dinner In A Dish (still my preferred method of cooking), and the red Outdoor Cookbook (one of our first purchases as newlyweds was a Weber Smoky Joe grill, which we parked on a cement patch off the driveway of our first apartment and used all the time).
Today, Betty doesn't often come off the shelf, but like an old friend, she comforts me. Her five binder rings, once a snug and tight fit, have loosened and spread with age and repeated use, making it somewhat difficult to thumb through her pages. Many of the recipe pages have torn through the hole punches and strayed from their original sections. Occasionally I find a lone page settled in with recipe clippings from newspapers and magazines and immediately recognize it as one I pulled out to try--a practice that even back then, I knew it was not a good idea but did anyway.
I return those pages to Betty as I find them, but not to their specific places. I have ideas of buying those little white circles to redo the torn hole punches, but so far she remains unkempt ... and still very much loved, despite her somewhat disheveled appearance.
I still think Betty is the perfect teacher, and as my daughters moved into phases of their lives where they needed to cook for themselves, I gave them Betty Crocker cookbooks to start their own collections.
When a new Big Red Cookbook came on the market in 2000, I bought copies for my older daughters, and couldn't resist buying one for myself, too ... just because. Much heftier than my old one, Betty still has a lot to offer. Every cook needs to know that Vanilla Pudding and Au Gratin Potatoes don't have to come out of a box, and that Cream of Mushroom Soup is a legitimate soup choice in and of itself and bears absolutely no resemblance to the canned gelatinous substance that needlessly finds its way into so many recipes.
Here is a recipe from my old Betty Crocker Cookbook. Use it to accompany a rare beef roast or perfectly-grilled steaks. Or offer it as a dipping sauce at to your next fondue party. It begins with making Brown Sauce. Check with Betty for all its variations.
Brown Sauce
2 T. butter
1 thin slice onions
2 T. flour
1 c. beef broth
1/4 t. salt
1/8 t. pepper
Heat butter in a skillet over low heat until golden brown. Add onion; cook and stir until onion is tender. Discard onion. Blend in flour. Cook over low heat, stirring until flour is deep brown. Remove from heat. Stir in broth. Heat to boiling, stirring constantly. Boil and stir 1 minute. Stir in salt and pepper.
Bordelaise Sauce: Substitute 1/2 c. red white for1/2 c. of the broth; stir in 1/2 t. snipped parsley, minced onion and crushed bayleafs and 1/4 t. thyme leaves with the broth and wine.